Nestled in one of the most picturesque corners of the Balaton Uplands (Balaton-felvidék), the Káptalantóti Liliomkert Market (Liliomkert piac, Káptalantóti) has become a Sunday ritual for locals and visitors alike. Every week from 7 AM to 2 PM, the tiny village of Káptalantóti buzzes with life as foodies, collectors, and wanderers descend for what’s much more than an ordinary farmers’ market—it’s an open-air festival of flavors, stories, and local crafts.
The Birth of a Legendary Market
What started years ago as a casual conversation among friends blossomed, thanks to the imagination and dedication of biologist-engineer Ildikó Harmathy, into one of Hungary’s most beloved market experiences. Liliomkert has become nothing short of a pilgrimage site for those searching for authentic tastes and handmade treasures. People drive in from far and wide just to stock up, snack, and soak up the energy.
A Banquet for Every Taste
Arriving hungry isn’t just recommended—it’s almost essential. Walking from stall to stall, you’re greeted (in the best possible way) with the smells of homemade sausages, steaming sour cream flatbreads, and cumin-crusted rolls fresh out of the oven. Baskets overflow with crispy cracklings, cheesy scones, and all manner of rustic Hungarian baked goods. It’s impossible to resist tasting your way through.
It doesn’t stop with food, though. The market offers small-batch cheeses, locally smoked ham, fruit syrups, jams, fresh and dried fruits, cakes, pastries, and rétes (Hungarian strudel) in just about every flavor you can imagine. Local winemakers and distillers pour both homemade syrups and potent pálinka (fruit brandy), alongside bottles of regionally grown wine.
On the craft side, you’ll find stall after stall displaying hand-carved woodwork, delicate lavender- and rose-decorated ceramics, and unique gifts to bring home. Antique hunters can browse through vintage collectibles, rare books, and oddities you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.
That Friendly, Village-Style Chaos
What really makes Liliomkert Market stand out is its community spirit. Producers and shoppers mingle, swap stories, and samples are passed around with a wink and a smile. Direct contact with the actual makers means you know exactly where your breakfast comes from—no middlemen, just straight from the oven, barrel, or garden.
Crowds can get thick, especially in the busy mid-morning hours. If you’re on a mission for the best of the day’s picks, arrive early. Also, don’t be surprised if cash is king—while some stalls do accept cards, many do not, so bring plenty of cash to avoid disappointment.
More than a Market: Stay, Sip, and Relax
The magic of the Káli Basin doesn’t disappear after checkout. For those seduced by its charm, Káptalantóti offers more than just an epic Sunday outing. Set against the embrace of four green hills at the edge of the village, guesthouses await with cozy, independent apartments, each fully equipped with a kitchen and bath. Evening brings its own pleasures: grill outside under the stars, nurse a glass of local wine, and let the strains of the day dissolve into quiet countryside calm. Neighboring villages—Badacsonytomaj, Salföld, and Mindszentkálla—lie just a couple of miles away and offer many reasons to extend your stay.
The Yellow House (Sárga Ház) guesthouse is perfect for anyone desperate to escape the maddening crowds. The 2,150-square-foot house is divided into three apartments—Pergola House, the Bunker, and Winemaker’s Room (VinCellér)—each around 750 square feet, self-contained with living, dining, bedroom, and bath. For those who love outdoor feasts, there’s a separate Kiwi House (Kivi Ház) summer kitchen where freshly picked garden vegetables meet local recipes for an extra dash of culinary satisfaction.
Wine Tradition, Volcanic Roots
Wine is woven deep into the local story. Families here have been tending vineyards and crafting wines for over 200 years, with knowledge passed down through generations. The vineyards nestle among the region’s volcanic hills: Badacsony, Gulács, Csobánc, and Tóti Hill (Tóti-hegy).
Today, ambitious wineries like the seven-hectare estate at Sabar Hill (Sabar-hegy) are producing wines with international style—concentrated, energetic, and elegantly moderate in alcohol. The focus is on white varietals, but both rosé and red options are part of the selection. For their most exclusive wines, only premium barrels make the cut.
See You on Sunday
Whatever your flavor—hot, sweet, savory, buzzy, or peaceful—Káptalantóti and its now iconic Liliomkert Market prove that a country Sunday can be the best day of the week. Just remember: programs and dates are subject to change, but the spirit of the market never disappoints.
