Slomó Köves takes the weekly Torah portion out of the text and into real life. Every Friday evening and Saturday morning he gives a talk called The Weekly Portion Through the Lens of Jewish Philosophy at the Óbuda Synagogue in Budapest. It’s an open invitation to slow down, ask questions, and think a little deeper as the week closes and Shabbat begins. You’ll find the synagogue at 1036 Budapest, Lajos Street 163, an old-new spiritual anchor in Óbuda that’s become a lively hub for study and community.
The rhythm is simple: show up Friday evening, come back Saturday morning, and follow along as the weekly parasha unfolds with philosophical insights, contemporary dilemmas, and practical takeaways. The teaching is rooted in classic sources, but the tone is inviting—more conversation than sermon, more thinking than lecturing. It’s a standing series, rolling through the fall with multiple dates, and a steady welcome to both regulars and first-timers.
If you’re planning ahead, there are sessions scheduled on 2025.10.31 in Budapest, followed by 2025.11.01, then 2025.11.07, and 2025.11.08, all in Budapest. These are part of an ongoing calendar, with more dates added as the season continues. The beauty of the weekly format is that you can drop in for one or return again and again to trace ideas as they build over time. Think moral courage one week, community responsibility the next, and the small rituals that hold it all together in between.
Where it happens
Óbuda Synagogue is a landmark in a quietly buzzing neighborhood—accessible and unpretentious. The address, Lajos Street 163, sits within reach of the Danube and the city’s north side. The community here is as diverse as the questions people bring: observant locals, curious visitors, students, families, and travelers who like their Friday nights with a little philosophy and a lot of heart.
When to arrive
Friday evenings ease into Shabbat with learning that frames the week ahead. Saturday late morning returns to the text with fresh angles and deeper dives. Times may follow the seasonal rhythm of Shabbat, so arriving a little early is a good idea if you’re new—especially if you want a seat up front or to meet a friendly regular who’ll point you to the right page.
Stay nearby: low-key to leafy
For those coming in from out of town—or just treating themselves to a quiet weekend—there’s a surprising range of places to stay near the north side and along the Danube. A small, family-run guesthouse with 20 rooms sits by two of Budapest’s favorite swimming spots: the Csillaghegy Bath and the Római Beach Bath. It’s modest, friendly, and made for people who prefer real conversation to lobby-bar jazz.
You’ll also find a cozy hotel in a garden-like suburban quarter north of downtown, with comfortable double rooms and two apartments. Rooms come with private bathrooms—shower or tub—satellite TV, and a mini-fridge. It’s the kind of place where the windows actually open and mornings start slow.
If you want river air, head to the Római-part (Roman Bank), Budapest’s relaxed Danube-bank playground. There’s a venue right on the water that hosts large outdoor events and runs a Civil Exercise Club. They’ll help with full-scale production if you’re planning something big, or simply give you space to breathe if you’re not.
Several pensions on the Római-part offer double rooms with showers, sinks, private toilets, and air-conditioning. Expect internet access, an in-house phone line, cable TV, and a drink bar. Perks include garden use, nearby tennis, beaches, shopping centers, and all the casual fun the Római-part dishes out on summer nights.
For a change of scene, there’s a hillside forest school near the summit at 495 m—about 1,624 feet in elevation—surrounded by old oaks and black pines. The open groves create a cool microclimate even in peak summer, and the school’s buildings provide shelter for programs when the weather flips. It’s a rare mix of silence, shade, and fresh air, perfect for groups that like a little trail dust with their study sessions.
Hungary’s only ship-shaped hotel—the Holiday Beach Budapest Wellness Hotel with Sauna Park—floats in spirit right on the Danube, wrapped in greenery. Expect solid pools, free Wi‑Fi, and easy transit access; the nearest bus stop is a 3-minute walk. For a calm base with a city connection, it hits the sweet spot.
Also along the river is Hotel Noé, a three-story building with six fully equipped wooden houses set in nearly one hectare of landscaped grounds. You get clean air, sunbathing lawns, BBQ spots, and parking—city within reach, urban noise kept at arm’s length.
Closer to both central Budapest (about 20 minutes) and the artsy river town of Szentendre (10 minutes), a Scandinavian-style pension offers rooms with private bathrooms, telephones, and color TVs, plus a drink bar, secure parking, and an inner garden. Car, bus, or HÉV suburban rail will get you there without headaches.
Budget travelers can look to Külker Hostel, a two-story, 26-room spot in Buda’s green belt, ideal for individual workers and couples, with free parking directly in front. In summer, Márton Áron Student Hostel opens from July 15 to August 25 with two- and three-bed rooms, internet access, sports options, and a fire pit. Discounts are offered for Hungarians from beyond the border, groups, and stays over 14 days.
Come for the learning, stay for the quiet. Or reverse it. Either way, Friday evenings and Saturday mornings at Óbuda make space for thinking, community, and a better kind of week.
