Every year, as July draws to a close, the rolling hills beneath Gyöngyös come alive for a weekend of tastings, laughter, and history at the legendary Farkasmály Historic Cellar Row (Farkasmály Történelmi Pince-sor). On July 25–26, 2025, wine lovers, history buffs, and gastronomes are invited to venture below the surface to discover the secrets and flavors of the region’s unique cellar system. This immersive celebration isn’t just about sipping fantastic wines—it’s a heady blend of local lore, atmospheric adventure, and some of the best street food northern Hungary (Észak-Magyarország) has to offer.
Guided Cellar Tours: Drink in the Past
The highlight of the weekend is the pair of guided cellar tours, taking intrepid visitors deep into the ancient “hole-cellar” (lyukpince) system for an unforgettable sensory experience. On both Friday at 7 p.m. and Saturday at 8 p.m., you can meander through these historical wine vaults—some nearly three centuries old—tasting four curated wines, each introduced with tales of intrigue, tradition, and community. As you sample these handpicked selections, your guide shares stories from the past 200 years—a journey priced at just $13.50 per person (5,000 HUF), with tickets available in advance or onsite at the information booth. Sign up via the provided email, or spontaneously join at the entrance if the mood strikes you.
Eat, Drink, Repeat
Wine flows best with a hearty bite, and the Farkasmály event delivers. The bustling gastro courtyard bursts with flavor, featuring handmade flatbreads, the juicy Mátra flatbread (Mátrai lepény) specialty, and irresistibly decadent burgers. This year, the much-loved Burger Boyzz will arrive by food truck, firing up their famed smashed burgers for hungry festival-goers, alongside artisan cheese stalls for those craving something savory with their glass. Every year, the street-food offerings get better, providing new surprises for both returning fans and first-timers.
Quality music, vibrant lighting, and the magical, grapevine-flanked setting transform the event into a feast for all the senses.
The Logistics: How, What, and How Much?
Tickets are a bargain: a day pass costs $6.75 (2,500 HUF) and a two-day pass just $12 (4,500 HUF), available at the information booth. If you forgot to bring your own glass, branded ones are for sale at $4 (1,500 HUF), or you can get a reusable cup for $2.70 (1,000 HUF)—and you get your money back if you return it. The event operates on a token system for all food and drinks; buy your “Token” (Zseton) right at the booth.
The Tale of the Farkasmály Cellars
The story of the Farkasmály wine cellars dates back to the mid-1700s, when locals first carved caves into the five-meter (16-foot) volcanic cliffs at the foot of Fox Hill (Sárhegy). Early progress was slow, until the Napoleonic wars brought French prisoners of war, who were put to work by Baron Lőrincz Orczy. Their chisels cut through the petrified ash, forming tunnels with a slight incline to safely vent the deadly “must gas”—a colorless byproduct of fermentation that had claimed many a winemaker.
The resulting cellars maintained a steady 57°F (14°C) and a humid 90% atmosphere, ideal for aging wine. Stone blocks carved from the excavations were turned into imposing retaining walls and used as local building material. During each autumn harvest, pressing houses hummed with activity as winemakers processed the mountain’s bounty.
The cellar row was the vibrant heart of Mátra (Mátra) wine culture between the wars, drawing crowds for its parties and commerce. World War II brought devastation—press houses and the grand hotel at the end of the cellar row were bombed, sending more than 7,000 people fleeing underground for safety.
The 1960s Soviet export boom demanded more storage: thirteen major cellars were linked by corridors and equipped with concrete tanks. At its peak, over 264,000 gallons (1 million liters) of wine—15% of the nation’s annual output at the time—rested here, aged in both reductive and oxidative styles.
Meet the Makers: Wineries and Local Flavors
Farkasmály is now part of Gyöngyös—once the town’s entertainment hub, it’s home to hand-hewn cellars, buzzing terraces in summer, and regular festivities like the traditional St. Ivó Day (Szent Ivó nap) cellar walk. The region’s wineries take pride in small-batch whites (floral, fresh, and fruity), robust reds that reflect the volcanic soil, and even experimental pairings at home-restaurant tastings. Some offer interactive tours, harvest experiences, and full-scale wine dinners by appointment.
Classic venues like Golden Cellar Tavern (Aranypince Vendéglő) dish out Hungarian favorites as well as international cuisine. Bori Mami and Blue Peak (Kékes) restaurants round out the scene, known for refined dining, warm hospitality, and airy, modern interiors ideal for gatherings of all sizes.
Magic in the Mátra
What keeps Farkasmály so special? It’s not just the wine; it’s the blend of tradition, innovation, and community. Whether you’re savoring artisan cheese with your crisp Olaszrizling of the Foothills of Mátra (Mátraaljai olaszrizling), or sharing a laugh over street food under the vine-laced lights, everyone can find a slice—or a sip—of happiness on this magical hillside. Just remember: schedules and programs may change, so keep an eye on the information booth and enjoy the ride.
