Fertő tó, also known by its German name Lake Neusiedl, is an unusual and fascinating place perched right on the border between Hungary and Austria. A shallow, breezy steppe lake like nothing else in Central Europe, it’s just a short drive from the bustling city of Sopron, yet it feels like a world of its own. If you think you know lakes—picture sparkling blue water, deep enough for diving and ringed by mountains—get ready to have your expectations delightfully upended. Here at Fertő tó, the water is typically less than two meters deep, its color changes with the wind and weather, and its edges dissolve into deep reeds and marshes that buzz with wildlife. Most locals can tell you tales of crossing the lake far out just by wading, usually with mud squishing softly underfoot.
Lake Neusiedl’s character is shaped by its landscape and rich history. For centuries, the area provided a natural border—sometimes blurred, sometimes stark—between different empires and cultures. The lake’s stories go back at least to 1278, when the towns nearby were first officially mentioned in historical sources. Over the centuries, empires and kingdoms passed through: the Ottomans, Habsburgs, and Hungarians all left their mark. The town of Sopron, close to the lake’s southern edge, is famous for declaring in 1921 (after a turbulent referendum) that it preferred to be part of Hungary rather than Austria. Yet despite—or maybe because of—these ever-shifting borders, there’s a sense of peaceful openness on Lake Neusiedl’s bright shores.
Today, the lake is beloved for its gentle atmosphere and quirky, nature-first mood. Rather than motorboats and jet skis, you’re more likely to watch windsurfers zigzag past and long-legged herons stalk the shores. If you’re arriving from Hungary’s side, the best entry point is the little village of Fertőrákos, where you can rent a bicycle or stroll along the reed-lined pathways. A famous quarry, once a center of stone cutting, yawns open here—a place where evenings fill with opera performances in the summer months. On the water itself, the scenery is ever-changing. One moment the wind whips the surface into frothy waves and the next, everything stills and the reeds sway quietly, their stalks whispering in the breeze.
If you’re the sort who treasures birdwatching, you might already know why Fertő tó is a favorite stopover. More than three hundred bird species have been recorded around the lake, making it one of Europe’s most significant wetland habitats. UNESCO recognizes the Hungarian and Austrian sides of the region as a World Heritage Site, proof of how special its “cultural landscape” truly is. In spring and autumn, expect to see clouds of geese and rare birds overhead. Bring binoculars and patience: sometimes it’s worth just sitting in silence to let the wildlife come to you. Even on a walk or a cycle, don’t be surprised by sudden flashes of blue—kingfishers darting down to hunt, or the shimmering wings of dragonflies hovering above the still pools.
Foodwise, you will find flavors as intriguing as the landscape. In Sopron or the lakeside villages, the menus change with the season: think freshwater fish, local wines (especially the region’s famed Kékfrankos reds), and lots of homemade cakes. Naturally, if you cycle the lakeshore (there’s a 115-kilometer path circling the entire lake, so bring comfy shoes), you’ll work up a fine appetite. Local markets brim with apricots and cherries in the summer, and the afternoon sunlight sets the vineyards glowing in late summer and autumn.
No matter whether you’re drawn by 🚴♂️ cycling, lazy picnicking, or the sheer joy of long summer afternoons spent by the lakeshore, Fertő tó’s charm is both gentle and genuine. At certain times of day—early morning as the mist rises, or golden hour before evening—you might notice how silent and meditative the place can become, despite being so close to populated towns. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself simply sitting and watching the mood of the water change, falling into conversation with friendly locals, or lingering longer than you ever intended.
Ultimately, Fertő tó (Lake Neusiedl) doesn’t try to dazzle visitors with drama or spectacle. Instead, it reveals itself slowly: in stillness, subtlety, and the comforting sense of a landscape shaped by centuries of coexistence between people and nature. If you ever find yourself near Sopron, consider taking a detour to the lakeshore. Here, time unwinds softly, and the wide horizon invites you to breathe easy, look out across the reeds, and maybe plan your own story on the edge of Hungary.
