Írott-kő is one of those rare places where stories, nature, and history all gather seamlessly at the border of Hungary and Austria. Officially the highest point of Hungary’s western Transdanubia region, this curious peak stands at 882 meters. Despite not being the grandest mountain around by Alpine standards, it offers a unique atmosphere that is a blend of fairy-tale forests, a storied stone tower, and the gentle hum of two European cultures blending together. The name itself—”Írott-kő“—literally means “Written Stone,” and fittingly, every bit of this location is inscribed with layers of meaning and tales.
What will immediately strike first-time visitors is the journey leading up to Írott-kő. The National Blue Trail, Hungary’s famed classic trekking route, passes right by here, attracting hikers from across the country. The area is part of the Kőszegi-hegység (Kőszeg Mountains), a lush and protected woodland that seems made for stories of hidden treasures and secret meetings. The paths are shaded by mature beech and oak trees—exploring here can feel like stepping inside an old, well-loved book. Keep an eye out for birds, roe deer, and sometimes wild boar. The tranquility of these woods is genuine; you’ll share space with other nature lovers or ambitious hikers making their way up from the historic town of Kőszeg.
Now, for the moment that sparks everyone’s curiosity: the actual Írott-kő kilátó—the stone lookout tower perched at the summit. This structure isn’t just an observation deck; it’s almost a capsule of local history. Built in 1913, during the latter days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it was a time when borders felt firm yet friendships easily crossed them. The tower stands right on the border, so you can literally straddle Hungary and Austria while gazing out at panoramic views over the historic town of Kőszeg, the vineyards extending east, and the rolling hills of Burgenland stretching away to the west. There’s always a quiet buzz of conversation here, with travelers in boots comparing journeys and locals reminiscing about school trips.
Take the spiral stairs up through the weathered stone and you’ll reach an enclosed platform, protected from the sometimes icy winds. On a clear day, you might see all the way to the Alpine foothills, and sometimes even the distant silhouettes of the Rax and Schneeberg peaks in Austria. It’s almost like reality pauses for a moment with that vast horizon laid out before you. In autumn, fog rolls across the land below, and the beech woods turn every possible shade of flame and gold. It’s easy then to understand why this place was precious enough for emperors and bishops to leave their marks here—literally. Look for old inscriptions and plaques set into the tower, and you’ll spot the names of early hikers and dignitaries, linking this present moment to generations long past. If you’re lucky, some local hiking group may be celebrating an anniversary, and you’ll hear songs and laughter drifting around the stone.
Despite all its beauty, Írott-kő isn’t just about standing still and gazing out. The broader area invites lingering: miles of marked trails lead into dense forest, across sunny meadows where wildflowers pop up even into late spring, and down to the border village of Velem. Stop for a picnic under the shadowy, fragrant beeches, or join a guided mushroom walk if you’re visiting in early autumn. Kids can hunt for geocaches or imagine stories about the border stone, which is marked by coordinates and national crests—a playful nod to the days when crossing these woods wasn’t as simple as a stroll. This is also a favorite area for annual mountain running competitions—a real showcase of endurance and camaraderie.
Another distinctive aspect of Írott-kő is the air of gentle eccentricity you’ll find in the region. Locals from Kőszeg often describe the air as the cleanest in Hungary, pointing to weather records and a long tradition of forest bathing that goes back decades. Artists, poets, and nature enthusiasts gravitate here, drawn by an atmosphere that’s both restful and subtly mysterious. Autumn festivals glow with pumpkin lanterns, and hikers might return from the hilltop with chestnuts, stories, or new friends made along the way. You may catch a group sketching the tower in watercolors, or find a symphony of birdsong echoing through the trees during late spring—nature’s own borderless concert 🎨 as the birds have flown in from all across Europe.
No matter your reasons for visiting—hiking, history, a taste for secret woodland adventures—Írott-kő delivers something quietly profound. All borders here are softened by age and curiosity, and there’s room for every kind of explorer. Take your time on the trails, climb the old tower, read the names on the stones, and add your own story to one of Hungary’s most atmospheric hilltops.
